The ultimate Curly Girl ABC - Curly hair care terms from A - Z

This curl ABC contains all definitions around the topic Curly hair care . You will find short descriptions of washing techniques, styling techniques, accessories and common terms on the subject of curly hair care from A to Z .

Alternatively, you can find here An overview sorts all washing and styling methods ABC .

Curl Care Terms A - D

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse - AVC Rinse

An AVC rinse is a mixture of apple cider vinegar and filtered water .
Apple cider vinegar is diluted with water (ratio approx. 1/10), filled into a spray bottle and massaged thoroughly, especially into the scalp. The clarifying mixture can also be applied to the lengths of the hair.

Ideally, organic apple cider vinegar should be used and, if possible, one "with the mother", as this still contains valuable nutrients.

Apple cider vinegar is a natural product weapon for hair and skin , because

• it is anti-bacterial
• and can have a healing effect
• and also has a clarifying effect.

The AVC Rinse is known to restore scalp pH , detangle hair, give better curl definition, soothe & clarify the scalp, reduce frizz and also improve hair porosity.

It can be massaged into the scalp and lengths of the hair before washing it or after shampooing and before conditioner/ deep conditioner . After a short period of time, rinse thoroughly and continue with the respective routine.

Before you try this technique, feel free to take part in our curl quiz . By answering the questions, we can tell you which curl shampoo is right for your curls.

Buff

A buff is a stretchy cloth with two open ends that can be used to protect curls/waves. You can pull the buff over your hair at night, for example, and fasten it at the top so that the curls/waves are better protected and can last for several days.

build-up

Build-up is the gradual accumulation of certain ingredients on the hair. This accumulation can, for example,

• by silicones,
• hard water,
• heavy and many hair care products are created.

Build-Up acts like a barrier that prevents further care products or styling products from penetrating or taking effect. 

Indicators of a lot of build-up are

• scale-like particles,
• drooping, weakened, inelastic curls/waves,
• as well as itching on the scalp.

cast

At the end of the styling routine, many people use a curl gel or custard for more definition and hold . Many gels/custards deliberately form a so-called cast, which means that the product wraps around each defined strand of hair like a hard coat.

The hair becomes hard and rigid/immobile when air-drying . To get the desired definition and volume after air-drying, the cast is kneaded out again with the hands as soon as the hair is completely dry (also called SOTC - Scrunch Out The Crunch) until the hair is beautifully voluminous and soft.

For SOTC, a few drops of oil/serum/ leave-in conditioner are often used.

Clarify - Clarify

This is mainly about removing a lot of build-up from the scalp and hair. There are special clarifying shampoos, also known as deep cleansing shampoos, which have a particularly clarifying effect. These contain stronger surfactants (this does not automatically mean the use of sulfates).

You can find a very good deep cleansing shampoo in the shop: Rizos Curls | Hydrating Shampoo

Co-Wash

Wash curls/waves with a clarifying conditioner instead of shampoo, so-called "co-washes". These do not foam, are creamy and very mild.

clumping

Individual strands clump together and form wider waves/curls. The easiest way to separate the clumps is to hold your hair upside down using a wide-toothed comb or a curling brush, such as our Rainbow Curls | Detangling & Styling Brush . The individual strands are fixed in place using curling gels.

curl training

During deep conditioning or conditioning, you can twist your hair and leave it like that while the product works. This “trains” the hair to become even curlier.

Deep Condition

These are special treatments that stay in the hair longer and hydrate the hair extensively (or supply it with protein through special protein deep conditioners).

The Deep Conditioner (DC) is massaged into wet hair, into the lengths and, if desired, into the scalp.

The treatment is left to work for 15-30 minutes , ideally under a hair cap - you can use our Rainbow Curls | Curly Girl Shower Cap for this. If the hair is slightly weighed down, DC can also be applied to the hair before shampooing and rinsed out with shampoo after the treatment time.

diffusing

Dry your hair with a diffuser attachment.

Dry Detangling

Since your hair is more stable when dry than when wet, you can also gently untangle it section by section before washing .

This is a good idea if your hair is very tangled, which is often the case with highly porous hair . Be sure to read this article : Hair porosity » Guide to smooth hair

Expert tip: If you do not detangle your hair before washing it, it could lead to increased hair breakage during wet detangling (see below).

Denman Brush Method

Like finger coiling, except that you use a special curling brush. The Denman Brush is ideal. While the hair is still wet, twist individual strands with the brush to create a nicer, more defined curl.

curl terms E - H

Edge

This refers to the hair around the hairline, the so-called "baby hairs". These are often styled and fixed with "edge control".

Finger Coiling

While the hair is still wet, wrap individual strands around your fingers to create a nicer, more defined curl.

Fluff

For more volume, use an Afro comb ( Afro Pick ) or your hands and start directly at the scalp and gently “shake” the roots to lift them slightly.

Gelatin Treatment

This is a DIY treatment that contains a lot of protein due to the gelatine it contains.

Glazing

A gel application method . The gel is distributed between the hands and then gently rubbed onto the hair strands with both hands to create a layer of gel around the curls.

Little pressure is applied to the hair, the bundles are not combed through and, unlike raking, the hair strands are not separated from each other. The aim is to touch or change the hair strands as little as possible.

Our curl quiz will help you find the right gel for your hair structure. What are you waiting for :)?

Hover Diffusing

The Hover Diffusing method involves moving the diffuser around the hair without touching it. Since the diffuser does not come into contact with the hair during this type of blow-drying, a higher heat setting can be used and the risk of frizz is reduced. There is less physical contact with the hair, which means less friction and less risk of frizz.

curl terms L - O

LOC™ method

This method involves layering specific products when styling hair in a specific order to "seal" moisture into the hair (originally developed by Rochelle Graham).
What does LOC stand for?
1. L = Liquid: This stands for a water-based leave-in conditioner. This is first applied to wet hair.
2. O = Oil: Now a light second layer is applied to the hair.
3. C = Cream: Finally, a cream-based styling product is applied.

Expert tip: This method is primarily intended to protect against external influences that can remove moisture from the hair.

Variation: LOG method

A small variation of the method has been developed, in which the 3rd point changes:
3. G = Gel: Finally, a gel is applied.

Low-Poo

A light foaming shampoo with mild surfactants (slightly stronger than Cowash and No Poo). Contains no silicones, sulfates or parabens.

Micro-Plopping

Using a t-shirt or microfiber towel, gently squeeze any excess water or product from your hair . You can also check out our Rainbow Curls | "Like a T-shirt" Curl Towel .

No-Poo

Comes from English and is a method in which no shampoo is used. Co-wash is often used instead.

curl terms P - S

Pineapple

Tie the hair at the top into a bun to protect the curls/waves (especially helpful at night).

plopping

A technique of tying the hair up in a T-shirt or a special microfiber towel after styling to enhance the shape of the waves/curls while drying.

Pixie Diffusing

This is a special blow-drying method . The hair is dried upside down, usually on a high setting and with warm air.

The hair is dried in sections and the hairdryer is turned off as soon as each section is dry. A section of hair is placed in the diffuser, brought towards the scalp, the hairdryer is turned on and as soon as the section is finished it is turned off again and the next section is dried using the same method. This is primarily to avoid frizz.

Porosity

Porosity indicates how well the hair can absorb and retain moisture.

Here’s a quick reminder for you about our curl quiz .

Praying Hands

A popular styling method . With the styling product spread over both hands, run your palms facing each other (like a hand folded flat in prayer) along the strands of hair from top to bottom to work the product intensively into the hair.

Then gently scrunch the hair upwards . This method is intended to counteract frizz .

Pre-Poo

Before washing, apply an oil or (deep) conditioner and allow it to work.

raking method

Here, the respective product is combed through the hair - not with a comb/brush, but with the fingertips.

Rake & Shake

Here, the respective product is combed through the hair with the fingers and then the hair strands are "shaken" to support the curl formation.

Root Clipping

Hair clips are used directly at the roots to keep the roots lifted while air drying. This technique can be used to create more volume at the roots.

scrunching

This is the most common styling method for wavy or curly hair. You scrunch your hair up with your hands to create your waves/curls.

The more often and more vigorously you knead, the more defined and curlier your hair will be. For example, if you only want voluminous beach waves, you would only scrunch (knead) very lightly.

SOTC - Scrunch Out The Scrunch

When the hair is completely dry, the crunch of the cast is kneaded out until the hair feels soft again and has gained volume.

Expert tip: This can be done either with your hands, a soft cloth or t-shirt. A little oil/serum can also be used for this.

Smasters

As soon as the hair is about 50% dry, knead a little more styling product into the hair. For some people, this method strengthens the hold.

Shingling method

This method is aimed primarily at hair textures in the 4 range to achieve very defined curls. The (dry) hair is divided into several sections and

• Leave-In Conditioner,
• gel
• or Cream generously incorporated into the sections.

The product is applied to each strand of hair, from the root to the end, and down along the strand.

Squish to Condish

This method helps to thoroughly hydrate the hair and helps with curl formation. When the hair is covered with conditioner, it is not completely rinsed out with running water but is gradually squeezed out of the hair with water.

A kind of "bowl" is formed with the palms of your hands and some water is collected in it. With this water, the hair covered with conditioner is kneaded upwards upside down and the hydrating effect of the conditioner is worked into the hair even better, section by section.

This process is repeated 2-3 times. At the end, the conditioner-water mixture should be distributed throughout the hair and absorbed as much as possible and you can then proceed to styling. For example, you can then knead in the gel straight away.

curl terms W

Wet Detangling

Wet Detangling means that the hair is wet condition (ideally with slip-giving conditioner). You can do this either with your fingers, a wide-tooth comb or a curl-friendly brush.

However, hair is most vulnerable and breaks most easily when it is wet. Therefore, first carefully loosen the knots at the ends and work your way up to the roots.

Wet Plopping

The wet plopping method gives the hair enough time to deeply absorb the leave-in under a shower cap before applying the gel, without stripping the hair of moisture. The result is visibly more defined, bouncier curls.

How does it work?

After washing, work a small amount of leave-in into your hair and use a comb or curling brush to comb away from the scalp until it is tangle-free. Scrunch your hair until your curls form. Then put on your shower cap.

To do this, go upside down so that the curls gather in a zigzag pattern under the shower cap.

Allow the leave-in to work for about 10 minutes, then carefully remove the cap and finally work a curl gel into your hair.

Diffuse your hair on a lukewarm setting and knead out the gel crust.

Check out our other curl tips posts:

• Moisture or protein for hair | What you need to know
• Strengthen natural curls » How to get your curls back
• Maintaining a perm: How to make your curls last longer
• Your Curly Hairdresser Guide
• Curly Girl Method » In just 5 steps to curly hair
• ABC of washing and styling methods for curly and wavy hair